You should dress the stone wet, of course, while the stone is set for grinding mains, then grind all your cranks that need the mains done. Time killer, but will give a nice round crank grinding job. A work around is to grind the rear three journals (of a V-8) and then swap the crank end for end in the chucks, re-center, and grind the front journal while the snout of the crank is facing the tail stock, rather than the head stock. All this is because the centerline of the head stock is pointing a different direction (cause of wear on the ways) than the tailstock centerline. This is caused by the steady rest's capability to literally bend the crank while grinding #2, #3, & #4 rod journals, but messing up the front journal because the shorter length of the crank sticking out of the head stock, makes the crank strong enough to over come the steady rest and you wind up grinding the forward side of the front rod journal, fairly round, while sculpting a couple tenths 'out of roundness' in the rear half of the #1 rod journal. The out of roundness will be on just the rear side of the front journal. Took a while to observe how many thousands to rotate the top table for each length crank, but eventually I got a good chart.ĪND, if your ways are worn (guaranteed they are or the previous owner would not have sold it) you will get pretty round 2nd, 3rd, and 4th rod journals, BUT, you are going to get 'out of round' #1 (front) rod journal. I made a chart, with a ruler marked off along where the tail stock landed, and with all the different length cranks, and I used a dial indicator to rotate the table.

Only quick fix is to loosen the table's pivot bolt (in the exact center of the table), and swing the table to get the main and/or rod journals cutting with no sideways taper. But, guaranteed, you will get sideways taper when you adjust the head stock & tail stock back to grind the rods. When you dress the stone, with the stone centered as for doing mains, sometimes you can 'maybe' grind the mains with no sideways taper. You have to realize how much wear they get from running in a slurry of coolant and stone grit. I did use the air feature to lift the tail stock, but not to ram it against the crank.Īlso, used crank grinders wear the ways in the main casting. I finally quit using the air chamber, and just pulled the tailstock up to the crank, with my right arm. I would lower your air pressure until the air pressure is just enough to move the tailstock.

I think you have a 15A-Special, which is a step up from a 15A.īe real careful with the air pressure to your tailstock, That thing comes at your hand like it wants to chop off some of your body parts.

Ground handling deluxe vulkan